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Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel Watch

Ancient Craftsmanship, Modern Marvel

Ulysse Nardin has always been at the forefront of watchmaking innovation, and the 2001 launch of the Freak further solidified the brand's reputation. This watch radically defied convention, eschewing traditional dials, hands, and crowns to instead indicate time through its own in-house movement. Not only did it revolutionize mechanics, it also pioneered the widespread use of silicon, forging a new direction for 21st-century watchmaking. Now, Ulysse Nardin's legacy is further enhanced with the Freak S Enamel watch, seamlessly blending its pioneering spirit with centuries-old enamel craftsmanship. These two limited edition models, featuring vibrant turquoise blue and deep ruby ​​red dials, represent the pinnacle of the Ulysse Nardin collection.

Ulysse Nardin's journey began in 1846 with the production of high-precision marine chronometers, essential for navigation. Its roots in precision engineering remain at the core of the brand. However, it was visionaries like Dr. Ludwig Oechsling who propelled watchmaking into a new era. His brainchild, the original Freak, was more than just a timepiece; it challenged the very definition of a watch. By transforming its movement into a chiming indicator, it broke fundamental rules and established a new design language. This adventurous spirit and creative freedom have been the cornerstones of every subsequent Freak.

The Freak S represents the pinnacle of this lineage, often hailed as the most complicated pure chronograph ever created. It is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of both technology and creativity. Even before the introduction of its enamel version, the Freak S was already an undeniable icon, renowned for its striking three-dimensional construction, patented Grinder automatic winding system, and groundbreaking use of dual oscillators. This new chapter in the Freak history integrates ancient decorative techniques into an ultra-modern mechanical frame, adding a new level of complexity and artistry to the watch. Freak

At the heart of the S Enamel watch lies the in-house UN-251 caliber, a self-winding movement whose operating concept radically differs from that of a traditional watch movement. Its architecture is not based on two simple planes, but rather a complex assembly spanning six distinct gear planes. This ingenious structure houses its most striking feature: two oversized silicon balance wheels, each tilted 20 degrees. These oscillators appear to float in mid-air, vibrating on different planes, creating a spectacle of kinetic art through the sapphire crystal.

To control the rates of these two independent oscillators, Ulysse Nardin has integrated the world's smallest mechanical vertical differential. Composed of 47 meticulously designed parts and six ceramic ball bearings, this component's key function is to balance the vibrations of the two balance wheels. This balancing function enhances the movement's precision and stability. The differential itself is an unprecedented feat of micromechanics, developed in collaboration with experts who manufacture components for high-tech medical devices, a testament to the extreme precision inherent in its manufacturing.

The assembly of the UN-251 movement is a masterpiece of exquisite craftsmanship. Comprising 373 parts and 33 jewels, it is entirely assembled by a single watchmaker. The movement operates at a frequency of 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vibrations per hour), a meticulous design designed to enhance efficiency and achieve a power reserve of 72 hours. While the movement's functions are reduced to the hours and minutes, the displays are anything but simple. Like a flying carrousel, the entire movement rotates once on its axis every hour to indicate the minutes, while a hand on a rotating hour disc indicates the hours.

Ulysse Nardin's pioneering work with silicon is a core characteristic of the Freak collection. The brand pioneered the use of this material as a fundamental element, not a detail. Silicon's lightness, flexibility, low friction, and complete anti-magnetic properties confer significant performance advantages on watches, enhancing precision, durability, and long-term reliability. The UN-251 movement contains ten in-house silicon components, including the striking balance wheel and its balance spring.

This technological advantage is further enhanced by the DIAMonSIL material used in the escapement. Patented by Ulysse Nardin in 2007, this technology coats silicon components with a layer of synthetic diamonds. This fusion technique imparts an extremely hard surface, making it resistant to friction and shock. This high level of durability is crucial, given that the escapement is subjected to over 150 million shocks annually. Production of these advanced components is carried out by Sigatec, the brand's specialized silicon laboratory in Switzerland, which draws on over two decades of expertise in this field.

Powering such a complex and energy-intensive double-rotor movement presents a formidable challenge. Ulysse Nardin's solution is the Grinder automatic winding system, first introduced in the 2017 Freak InnoVision 2 concept watch. Its design goes far beyond conventional winding rotors. It utilizes a cage connecting four independent blades that captures the slightest wrist movements and converts them into usable energy for the mainspring. This mechanism ensures a 72-hour power reserve, keeping this high-tech engine operating at peak performance.

While the Freak S's mechanics are undoubtedly futuristic, the new enamel watch has deep roots in watchmaking tradition. Enameling is an ancient craft, prized for its ability to create unparalleled depth and lasting color. Ulysse Nardin has long preserved this expertise through its in-house workshop, Donzé Cadrans, Switzerland's oldest dedicated enameling house. Founded in 1972 by master enameler Francis Donzé, the workshop was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011 to preserve its invaluable expertise.

The creation of the Freak S enamel watch presented extraordinary challenges. Unlike traditional watches, where enamel is applied to a static dial, the enamel must be applied to a rotating hour disc—an active, functional component within the movement. This disc rotates continuously and adheres to exacting tolerances, meaning the enamel must balance balance, weight, and structural integrity without compromising its visual perfection. Any imperfection could potentially mar the watch's delicate mechanics. The craft begins with a base disc crafted from a specific 18K white gold alloy, chosen for its thermal stability and ability to withstand the kiln's intense heat without warping. Before the enamel is applied, the disc is imprinted with the signature guilloché pattern, designed to enhance the visual effect of the rotating carrousel gears and their twin oscillators. The enamel material is then hand-ground into an extremely fine powder, mixed with water to form a paste, and meticulously applied to the disc.

The disc undergoes multiple firings in a kiln at approximately 800°C. The enamel is typically applied in three to four layers, each firing intensifying its color and texture. This process is fraught with risk; even the slightest misstep in temperature or timing can cause bubbling, cracking, or discoloration, forcing the artisan to start over. After the final firing, the surface is hand-polished for over an hour to reveal the rich luster and depth of the turquoise or ruby ​​red. The result is a watch of stunning beauty and exceptional durability.

This masterpiece of mechanical art is housed in a 45mm titanium case. Titanium, an advanced material commonly used in aerospace engineering, is prized for being approximately 45% lighter than stainless steel while offering exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. The entire case structure, including the case body, bezel, and locking mechanism, is crafted from titanium, ensuring a durable yet lightweight construction for enhanced wearing comfort. The case measures 16.65 mm in thickness and is water-resistant to 30 meters.

Visually, this watch is a feast of movement and color. The spaceship-like movement, with a large arrow-shaped minute indicator, glides gently across the vibrantly colored enamel hour disc below. The twin inclined balance wheels oscillate in a captivating pattern on either side, their intricate silicon structure visible. The case itself features a modern, multifaceted design that complements the complex functions within. The elimination of a traditional crown results in a clean, futuristic silhouette; time setting is accomplished via a rotating bezel.

Each Freak S Enamel watch is presented with a strap that complements its aesthetic. The ruby ​​red model is paired with a white ballistic-textured rubber strap, creating a bold and striking contrast. The turquoise blue model, paired with a smoky gray rubber strap of the same texture, adds a touch of technical sophistication and understated elegance. Both straps secure with matching titanium folding clasps, completing the overall modern design.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel watch perfectly embodies the brand's philosophy of bridging watchmaking history and the future. It blends innovative mechanical concepts (derived from the brand's unwavering commitment to tradition) with the most traditional and demanding artistic decorative techniques. This masterful fusion of high-tech engineering and exquisite artistry creates a watch that is both a technical achievement and a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Both watches are limited editions, with the ruby ​​and turquoise models each produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces. This rarity highlights the difficulty and time involved in crafting each watch, particularly the hand-crafted enamel discs. Priced at CHF 153,000, the Ulysse Nardin Freak Enamel watch reflects its exquisite in-house movement, cutting-edge materials, and meticulous finishing. It makes a powerful statement for collectors who appreciate groundbreaking innovation and timeless artistry.

Case: 45mm titanium case, bezel, and caseback all enclosed in sapphire crystal. Thickness: 16.65mm, water-resistant to 30 meters.

Movement: In-house Caliber UN-251 automatic movement with Grinder automatic winding system. Equipped with a flying carrousel, two oversized oscillators inclined at 20 degrees (with silicon balance wheels), and a DIAMonSIL escapement. 72-hour power reserve, 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vph) frequency, 373 components, and 33 jewels.

Dial: The rotating hour disc is finished in vibrant turquoise blue or deep ruby ​​red Grand Feu enamel, set on a handcrafted 18K white gold Guilloché-Flinqué base. The movement serves as the minute indicator.

Strap: The red enamel model features a white ballistic rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp. The blue enamel model features a smoked grey ballistic rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp.

Price: CHF 153,000

Reference Numbers: 2513-500LE-6AE-RED/3A (red); 2513-500LE-3AE-TUR/3A (blue)