Richard Mille Men's RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Watch
The King of Clay, Nadal, and His 027 Collection
Before his first encounter with Richard Mille in 2008, Rafael Nadal had always refused to wear a watch. Indeed, watches were rarely seen in tennis, let alone other sports. Nadal has a unique on-court routine, and any additional accessory seemed to disrupt his routine. Initially hesitant to wear a watch, Richard Mille's work ultimately convinced him. The result was the RM 027, a watch that epitomizes Richard Mille's technological prowess and has become the King of Clay's constant companion on the court.
RM 027 – A "Second Skin" Watch
As the undisputed King of Clay, Nadal is widely considered the most formidable and fearless tennis player of all time. As early as 2010, he had won three of the four major championships. 2017 was his best season yet, with two Grand Slams and atop the ATP (Association of Tennis Professionals) rankings. Nadal currently holds the record for the most French Open titles in tennis history.
Nadal recalled their initial collaboration: "Richard came to me personally with a watch and said, 'This is a watch we made just for you.' It was platinum, so it was very heavy. I was confused and didn't realize he was joking. But when I tried the real watch on, I fell in love with it; there was an unspoken connection between us. This timepiece is now like a second skin."
A watch designed for tennis matches not only needs to withstand hours of repeated impact on clay courts and the resulting accelerations of hundreds of g's, but also needs to be comfortable to wear, incredibly lightweight, and resistant to sweat from an athlete's wrist: these are the true tests of a tourbillon movement. The RM 027 Tourbillon watch was born. Designed to withstand the demands of sporting environments, the RM 027, including its strap, weighs less than 20 grams, making it the lightest tourbillon watch ever made at the time. Furthermore, this watch was the first to utilize titanium for its tourbillon, ALUSIC® alloy for its case, and carbon fiber for its baseplate.
The baseplate of the RM 027 Tourbillon is crafted from titanium and LITAL®: a high-lithium alloy combining aluminum, copper, magnesium, and zirconium with a density of only 2.55. The addition of lithium, a lightweight element, to the alloy mix provides exceptional rigidity without adding unnecessary weight. For similar reasons, this special alloy is also used in the aerospace industry, in the Airbus A380, helicopters, rockets and satellites, and in Formula 1 racing cars. Furthermore, to minimize the weight of the watch, the movement within the RM 027 weighs just 3.83 grams.
Nadal tested the RM 027 under real-world conditions, wearing it during tennis matches. The results of this watchmaking experiment are clear: despite the sudden, violent movements and impacts often associated with high-level tennis matches, the RM 027 Tourbillon has proven its durability, allowing Nadal to swing his racket with complete confidence. With the RM 027, Richard Mille has truly brought mechanical watches, and even tourbillon watches, into the world of sports, showcasing the brand's exceptional performance and development capabilities in a real-world setting.
RM 27-01: Movement Suspended in the Center of the Case
Following the RM 027, Richard Mille aimed to break the record for the world's lightest mechanical watch with a new watch. The RM 27-01, unveiled in 2013, immediately broke the record. Weighing a mere 18.83 grams, including the heaviest strap, this watch defied the enormous challenge.
This unprecedented architectural construction, incredibly complex, stems from Richard Mille's determination to develop a watch with a movement suspended in the center of the case. Richard Mille drew inspiration from suspended bridges in structural engineering and aspired to apply this design to a watch, a space measuring just a few dozen millimeters. After months of meticulous research and development, Richard Mille's engineers finally realized this avant-garde design concept, resulting in what is arguably one of the most innovative architectural structures in recent years.
The baseplate of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal is secured to the case by four braided steel cables, each just 0.35 mm in diameter. This combination of rigidity and flexibility protects the movement, which weighs just 3.5 grams, thanks to the baseplate and tourbillon carriage crafted from grade 5 titanium, and the barrel and transmission gears crafted from an aluminum-lithium alloy.
The tension in these cables is controlled by tensioning devices at 3 and 9 o'clock, as well as by four pulleys at the four corners of the movement that act as towers. Each cable is fixed to a tensioning device, then passes through an upper pulley to the movement, where it returns to a lower pulley and connects to the lower flange. After threading the cables, the watchmaker then tightens them by rotating the central ring of the tensioning mechanism using a special tool.
Securing and tensioning these cables requires exceptional precision and intricacy: excessive tension could cause the cables to break or become loose, potentially damaging the movement; insufficient tension could cause the movement to resonate, compromising its chronometric performance. Thanks to its design, which allows the movement to be suspended from the center of the case, this exceptional movement can withstand accelerations exceeding 5,000 g's.
RM 27-02: A Watch of Uncompromising Quality
Inheriting the spirit of the RM 006, RM 008, and RM 012 Tourbillon watches, the RM 27-02 is a masterpiece among Richard Mille watches, destined to leave its mark. The RM 27-02 is a watch of uncompromising quality, reinterpreting the art and technique of watch design for the 21st century.
Following research conducted by Richard Mille's team of engineers on Carbon TPT®, the brand unveiled its innovative "monoblock" skeletonized baseplate, where the case middle and baseplate are fused together, eliminating the need for the two components to be fastened together. This construction, inspired by the chassis of a racing car, enhances the watch's rigidity and resistance to shocks when applied to watchmaking.
The monoblock movement baseplate is a technical feat requiring profound knowledge and the skill of micro-machining new materials: a concept nurtured by Richard Mille since its inception. The innovative "monoblock" skeletonized baseplate, where the case middle and baseplate are fused together, eliminates the need for the two components to be fastened together. This construction, inspired by the chassis of a racing car, enhances the watch's rigidity and resistance to shocks when applied to watchmaking. The monoblock movement baseplate is a technical feat requiring profound knowledge and the skill of micro-machining new materials: a concept nurtured by Richard Mille since its inception.
This is also reflected in the uncompromisingly innovative craftsmanship of the case. Its distinctive black and white exterior is undoubtedly eye-catching. Richard Mille's team of engineers, in collaboration with the British company North Thin Ply Technology, developed a unique material called Quartz TPT®, composed of hundreds of overlapping quartz filaments. These fibers are exceptionally resistant to high temperatures while offering exceptional rigidity and transparency, unaffected by electromagnetic waves. Since the RM 27-02, this unique material has been incorporated into various Richard Mille collections. Its excellent physical properties, exceptional wearability, and vibrant colors have made it a favorite case material among watch enthusiasts.
RM 27-03: Withstands shocks up to 10,000g
Following the impressive performance of the RM 27-02, the RM 027 series continues to advance in shock resistance and color, resulting in the RM 27-03 Tourbillon. The RM 27-03's tourbillon movement has reached unprecedented levels of shock resistance, capable of withstanding and resisting accelerations of up to 10,000g. This marks a milestone in watchmaking and a testament to the prowess of this Spanish tennis player.
In its design, this watch embodies the Spanish tennis champion's regal demeanor. The French Open is an ideal occasion for the launch of this new watch. Clay courts have always been Nadal's favorite, and he exploits his strengths to the fullest. The soft and fragile clay surface perfectly necessitates an aggressive style while adhering to the fundamental principles of competition.
The RM 27-03 seamlessly reconciles material innovation with horological construction. Clay courts are renowned for their magnifying effect. This also applies to the RM 27-03, whose striking red and yellow Quartz TPT® case symbolizes Nadal's native Spain. Using a proprietary Swiss process, a thin layer of silica, just 45 microns thick, is impregnated with colored resin, interwoven into a thin layer of filaments, and then heated to 120°C to create the vibrant, vibrant colors.
The development of the new Quartz TPT® colors demonstrates the exceptional skill of Richard Mille and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT) engineers, from color stability required by REACH standards to biocompatibility and durability. Once the composite material is created, it undergoes extensive milling and surface treatment to create the case and individual components.
The key innovation of this exceptional watch lies in its tourbillon movement's ability to withstand shocks of up to 10,000g. This extensive development and rigorous testing, conducted in a "pendulum impact test" that simulates the linear acceleration caused by sudden movement or impact, has elevated its performance to new heights.
RM 27-04: Cable-Suspended Movement
10,000g impact resistance wasn't the ultimate goal for Richard Mille. The RM 027 collection was born to break records and create possibilities. Thus, the RM 27-04 once again redefined the concept of mechanical watches. This new watch perfectly complements the collections previously created for the Spanish champion. Its uniqueness goes beyond this, as it also marks the tenth anniversary of Nadal's partnership with Richard Mille. The collaboration between the 14-time French Open champion and the founder of the brand that bears his name began as a purely professional exchange but later blossomed into a deep friendship.
According to the Mallorcan-born player, it's a "very special" relationship, one fueled by mutual trust and admiration for their respective professions. The RM 27-04 is no exception, weighing a mere 30 grams, including the strap.
The movement of this watch features a micro-sprayed mesh, a construction unprecedented in watchmaking. The 855 square millimeter mesh is composed of a single-core braided steel cable with a diameter of just 0.27 mm, secured by two screw tensioners treated with either PVD or 5N treatments, fully supporting the movement.
Inspired by the principles of tennis string braiding, the watchmaker first secures the cable to the tensioner at 5 o'clock and then begins weaving the mesh: the cable is alternately threaded through the posts, then braided horizontally. The cable then passes above and below the posts, passing 38 times around a hollow titanium flange, before finally reaching the tensioner at 10 o'clock, completing the weaving process. The uniform angles created by the braiding of the wire prevent excessive friction and localized wear on the posts caused by frequent impact during tennis matches. The movement, suspended from the center of the case, allows the RM 27-04 to withstand accelerations exceeding 12,000 g, setting a new endurance record for the Richard Mille brand.
From the original RM 027 to the RM 27-04, Richard Mille's close collaboration with the tennis superstar has spawned a diverse series of exceptional timepieces. However, Raphael's relationship with Richard goes far beyond partnership. The tennis champion stated, "He's a driven individual who truly wants to push watchmaking forward. He's not one to rest on his laurels. I admire his pursuit of excellence; in tennis, I always strive for better, and that's what I strive for."
I believe Richard Mille won't stop there. Although Nadal's physical condition may prevent him from competing for several more seasons, this year's French Open clay court will likely be the center of attention. As for the RM 027 watch series, we look forward to new surprises in the future.
Ulysse Nardin has always been at the forefront of watchmaking innovation, and the 2001 launch of the Freak further solidified the brand's reputation. This watch radically defied convention, eschewing traditional dials, hands, and crowns to instead indicate time through its own in-house movement. Not only did it revolutionize mechanics, it also pioneered the widespread use of silicon, forging a new direction for 21st-century watchmaking. Now, Ulysse Nardin's legacy is further enhanced with the Freak S Enamel watch, seamlessly blending its pioneering spirit with centuries-old enamel craftsmanship. These two limited edition models, featuring vibrant turquoise blue and deep ruby red dials, represent the pinnacle of the Ulysse Nardin collection.
Ulysse Nardin's journey began in 1846 with the production of high-precision marine chronometers, essential for navigation. Its roots in precision engineering remain at the core of the brand. However, it was visionaries like Dr. Ludwig Oechsling who propelled watchmaking into a new era. His brainchild, the original Freak, was more than just a timepiece; it challenged the very definition of a watch. By transforming its movement into a chiming indicator, it broke fundamental rules and established a new design language. This adventurous spirit and creative freedom have been the cornerstones of every subsequent Freak.
The Freak S represents the pinnacle of this lineage, often hailed as the most complicated pure chronograph ever created. It is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of both technology and creativity. Even before the introduction of its enamel version, the Freak S was already an undeniable icon, renowned for its striking three-dimensional construction, patented Grinder automatic winding system, and groundbreaking use of dual oscillators. This new chapter in the Freak history integrates ancient decorative techniques into an ultra-modern mechanical frame, adding a new level of complexity and artistry to the watch. Freak
At the heart of the S Enamel watch lies the in-house UN-251 caliber, a self-winding movement whose operating concept radically differs from that of a traditional watch movement. Its architecture is not based on two simple planes, but rather a complex assembly spanning six distinct gear planes. This ingenious structure houses its most striking feature: two oversized silicon balance wheels, each tilted 20 degrees. These oscillators appear to float in mid-air, vibrating on different planes, creating a spectacle of kinetic art through the sapphire crystal.
To control the rates of these two independent oscillators, Ulysse Nardin has integrated the world's smallest mechanical vertical differential. Composed of 47 meticulously designed parts and six ceramic ball bearings, this component's key function is to balance the vibrations of the two balance wheels. This balancing function enhances the movement's precision and stability. The differential itself is an unprecedented feat of micromechanics, developed in collaboration with experts who manufacture components for high-tech medical devices, a testament to the extreme precision inherent in its manufacturing.
The assembly of the UN-251 movement is a masterpiece of exquisite craftsmanship. Comprising 373 parts and 33 jewels, it is entirely assembled by a single watchmaker. The movement operates at a frequency of 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vibrations per hour), a meticulous design designed to enhance efficiency and achieve a power reserve of 72 hours. While the movement's functions are reduced to the hours and minutes, the displays are anything but simple. Like a flying carrousel, the entire movement rotates once on its axis every hour to indicate the minutes, while a hand on a rotating hour disc indicates the hours.
Ulysse Nardin's pioneering work with silicon is a core characteristic of the Freak collection. The brand pioneered the use of this material as a fundamental element, not a detail. Silicon's lightness, flexibility, low friction, and complete anti-magnetic properties confer significant performance advantages on watches, enhancing precision, durability, and long-term reliability. The UN-251 movement contains ten in-house silicon components, including the striking balance wheel and its balance spring.
This technological advantage is further enhanced by the DIAMonSIL material used in the escapement. Patented by Ulysse Nardin in 2007, this technology coats silicon components with a layer of synthetic diamonds. This fusion technique imparts an extremely hard surface, making it resistant to friction and shock. This high level of durability is crucial, given that the escapement is subjected to over 150 million shocks annually. Production of these advanced components is carried out by Sigatec, the brand's specialized silicon laboratory in Switzerland, which draws on over two decades of expertise in this field.
Powering such a complex and energy-intensive double-rotor movement presents a formidable challenge. Ulysse Nardin's solution is the Grinder automatic winding system, first introduced in the 2017 Freak InnoVision 2 concept watch. Its design goes far beyond conventional winding rotors. It utilizes a cage connecting four independent blades that captures the slightest wrist movements and converts them into usable energy for the mainspring. This mechanism ensures a 72-hour power reserve, keeping this high-tech engine operating at peak performance.
While the Freak S's mechanics are undoubtedly futuristic, the new enamel watch has deep roots in watchmaking tradition. Enameling is an ancient craft, prized for its ability to create unparalleled depth and lasting color. Ulysse Nardin has long preserved this expertise through its in-house workshop, Donzé Cadrans, Switzerland's oldest dedicated enameling house. Founded in 1972 by master enameler Francis Donzé, the workshop was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011 to preserve its invaluable expertise.
The creation of the Freak S enamel watch presented extraordinary challenges. Unlike traditional watches, where enamel is applied to a static dial, the enamel must be applied to a rotating hour disc—an active, functional component within the movement. This disc rotates continuously and adheres to exacting tolerances, meaning the enamel must balance balance, weight, and structural integrity without compromising its visual perfection. Any imperfection could potentially mar the watch's delicate mechanics. The craft begins with a base disc crafted from a specific 18K white gold alloy, chosen for its thermal stability and ability to withstand the kiln's intense heat without warping. Before the enamel is applied, the disc is imprinted with the signature guilloché pattern, designed to enhance the visual effect of the rotating carrousel gears and their twin oscillators. The enamel material is then hand-ground into an extremely fine powder, mixed with water to form a paste, and meticulously applied to the disc.
The disc undergoes multiple firings in a kiln at approximately 800°C. The enamel is typically applied in three to four layers, each firing intensifying its color and texture. This process is fraught with risk; even the slightest misstep in temperature or timing can cause bubbling, cracking, or discoloration, forcing the artisan to start over. After the final firing, the surface is hand-polished for over an hour to reveal the rich luster and depth of the turquoise or ruby red. The result is a watch of stunning beauty and exceptional durability.
This masterpiece of mechanical art is housed in a 45mm titanium case. Titanium, an advanced material commonly used in aerospace engineering, is prized for being approximately 45% lighter than stainless steel while offering exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. The entire case structure, including the case body, bezel, and locking mechanism, is crafted from titanium, ensuring a durable yet lightweight construction for enhanced wearing comfort. The case measures 16.65 mm in thickness and is water-resistant to 30 meters.
Visually, this watch is a feast of movement and color. The spaceship-like movement, with a large arrow-shaped minute indicator, glides gently across the vibrantly colored enamel hour disc below. The twin inclined balance wheels oscillate in a captivating pattern on either side, their intricate silicon structure visible. The case itself features a modern, multifaceted design that complements the complex functions within. The elimination of a traditional crown results in a clean, futuristic silhouette; time setting is accomplished via a rotating bezel.
Each Freak S Enamel watch is presented with a strap that complements its aesthetic. The ruby red model is paired with a white ballistic-textured rubber strap, creating a bold and striking contrast. The turquoise blue model, paired with a smoky gray rubber strap of the same texture, adds a touch of technical sophistication and understated elegance. Both straps secure with matching titanium folding clasps, completing the overall modern design.
The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel watch perfectly embodies the brand's philosophy of bridging watchmaking history and the future. It blends innovative mechanical concepts (derived from the brand's unwavering commitment to tradition) with the most traditional and demanding artistic decorative techniques. This masterful fusion of high-tech engineering and exquisite artistry creates a watch that is both a technical achievement and a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
Both watches are limited editions, with the ruby and turquoise models each produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces. This rarity highlights the difficulty and time involved in crafting each watch, particularly the hand-crafted enamel discs. Priced at CHF 153,000, the Ulysse Nardin Freak Enamel watch reflects its exquisite in-house movement, cutting-edge materials, and meticulous finishing. It makes a powerful statement for collectors who appreciate groundbreaking innovation and timeless artistry.
Case: 45mm titanium case, bezel, and caseback all enclosed in sapphire crystal. Thickness: 16.65mm, water-resistant to 30 meters.
Movement: In-house Caliber UN-251 automatic movement with Grinder automatic winding system. Equipped with a flying carrousel, two oversized oscillators inclined at 20 degrees (with silicon balance wheels), and a DIAMonSIL escapement. 72-hour power reserve, 2 x 2.5 Hz (2 x 18,000 vph) frequency, 373 components, and 33 jewels.
Dial: The rotating hour disc is finished in vibrant turquoise blue or deep ruby red Grand Feu enamel, set on a handcrafted 18K white gold Guilloché-Flinqué base. The movement serves as the minute indicator.
Strap: The red enamel model features a white ballistic rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp. The blue enamel model features a smoked grey ballistic rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp.
Why Audemars Piguet's Code 11.59 continues the story of craftsmanship, innovation and excellence
Modern aesthetics and precision engineering write a new chapter in the collection's story.
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection recently launched seven pink gold models with diameters of 38 mm and 41 mm; in addition to showcasing Audemars Piguet's unparalleled craftsmanship, the new watches also showcase a new exquisite guilloche dial. This iconic relief dial pattern first appeared on the 2023 stainless steel watch and is the result of hand-engraved concentric circles and tiny holes that interact with light.
Available in a variety of classic colors, including black, green and Audemars Piguet's iconic dark blue "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50", the collection also introduces a striking light blue, a soft hue that complements the rose gold decoration and case of the same metal. This special reference is one of two new 38 mm automatic models that expand the collection launched in October 2023. The other is the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” variant, which features rose gold details for added depth and sophistication.
Since its launch in 2019, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection has been dedicated to attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts while maintaining the brand’s core values of craftsmanship and technical excellence. With its modern aesthetic and superb engineering, the collection has become an essential part of the Audemars Piguet portfolio, reflecting the brand’s ability to continuously evolve and innovate.
Continuing a Tradition of Innovation Let’s look back five years ago. I remember being in the auditorium at the 2019 Winter International Haute Horlogerie Show when Audemars Piguet announced the Code 11.59. The brand unveiled 13 new models (and three new movements) that together presented a refreshing and, dare I say, pioneering design for Audemars Piguet. There was a quiet gasp in the room as a new range of automatic models and chronographs, minute repeaters, super repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars were presented to us. At first glance, the complex geometry and modern aesthetics of the case design caught our eye. Composed of an octagonal case, a round bezel and caseback, the structure, with a fine sapphire crystal, is home to new in-house movements, including high complications.
As viewers were excited by the staggering number of new watches, they also realized that we were witnessing a brand new chapter. It was history in the making.
Since then, the collection has made significant progress. High complications were introduced, including the Grande Sonnerie Supersonnerie in 2020 and the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in 2021. In December 2022, the Star Wheel joined again, reintroducing the iconic Wandering Hours complication to the Audemars Piguet collection. This was followed in February 2023 by the launch of the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, which, with 40 functions and 23 complications, is the most complicated watch ever produced by the Manufacture, while also demonstrating advances in ergonomics and user-friendliness.
The collection embodies Audemars Piguet’s forward-thinking approach, which continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking, blending tradition with innovation to create unexpected timepieces.
A modern new look The heart of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 watch is of course the aforementioned octagonal case middle, which blends seamlessly with the round case back and ultra-thin bezel. In fact, this design that incorporates organic and rigid shapes into a single timepiece breaks the monotony of traditional watch shapes as we know them. The faceted structure of the case allows for the mixing of metals, such as creating two-tone designs, and, in recent years, the introduction of a ceramic case middle. In 2023, the collection expands to include the first stainless steel models, bringing a sportier material to the collection.
Just like the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 watch, the multi-layered construction is first-rate. The skeletonized lugs are separate components, forged from stainless steel or precious metals such as 18K white or rose gold, and then individually satin-finished and polished. Now, extraordinary precision is required when assembling them. The upper part of the lug is welded to the ultra-thin bezel, while the lower part of the lug rests on the caseback in perfect alignment.
This craftsmanship is an effortless skill of the watchmaker when designing and shaping new shapes. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the lugs are not just functional components, but an integral part of the watch's visual identity and ergonomic comfort, enhancing the overall architectural beauty of the watch.
A platform for creative design The evolution of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection has seen significant advances in both materials and design, especially the dials. Since its launch, the collection has introduced a range of colorful styles, including sunray and fumé finishes, enamel dials and gem-set styles, while also debuting natural stone dials, aventurine dials and the first sapphire crystal dial, the latter effectively showcasing the subtle minute repeater super-chronograph movement.
In this case, the latest patterned dial adds a three-dimensional touch to the colorful canvas, making the slender faceted hour markers even more legible. The fonts of the seconds scale and crown have been slightly updated to enhance the modern style. In addition, the logo is presented in relief - created through a galvanic growth process similar to 3D printing, in which thin layers of 24K gold form the letters of the Audemars Piguet signature and are connected by hair-thin gold lines that are almost invisible to the naked eye. All of these details are hidden under the hyperbolic sapphire crystal, providing a unique visual experience.
New generation in-house movements The 38 mm automatic model features the 5900 movement, renowned for its slender 3.9 mm profile, high 4Hz frequency and 60-hour power reserve. Launched in 2022, this movement is a paragon of precision and reliability.
The 41 mm model is equipped with the 4302 movement, offering hours, minutes, seconds and date functions, or the 4401 movement, an integrated automatic chronograph with column wheel and flyback function; its vertical clutch system ensures smooth operation of the chronograph, while its patented reset mechanism ensures precise positioning of the hands.
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the refined haute horlogerie finishing, including the 22K rose gold rotor. Parts are adorned with polished corners, vertical satin-brushed, Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfers.
With these demonstrations of its capabilities, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 embodies a collection that is both technically sophisticated and visually stunning. There is no doubt that Audemars Piguet will continue to uphold its tradition of excellence for generations to come.
World time, universal time or simply dual time zone, travellers' watches are essential companions in our interconnected world - they are evolving as fast as the Earth is turning
What time is it? There is more than one answer to this question, because the answer also means knowing a given location. We are constantly in contact with people and things outside our own time zone! It is in this state that GMT-type watches and more generally watches that can display the time in multiple locations around the world exist.
From adding one time zone to two, three or even four, the increase in hands and dials is closely related to the type of needs we have. To find out the time anywhere at any time, Patek Philippe hired Louis Cottier, the inventor of the universal time mechanism, whose display principle became a benchmark in the field. However, these displays are as diverse as our cultures and capitals.
New era, new era
Is the key date 1954 or 1925? Was the first watch to display a second time zone a Rolex or a Longines? Some might say that this doesn't matter, as pocket watches already had this capability, aided by their comfortable size and close links to the world of railways – which themselves were crucial to defining the international time zones in 1884. Since then, dual-time zone watches have come a long way, evolving towards ever-greater refinement and genuine innovation in the 21st century.
The fourth hand on the central or subdial is the indispensable GMT. While the world reference time is now known as UTC, the three letters that inspired our magazine's name remain the abbreviation for travel watches – although its limitations have long inspired more complex creations.
Fresh out of the oven time (zones)
The proliferation of more complex displays – whether the moving rollers of Jacob & Co., the rotating satellites of Hermès, the hemispheres of Montblanc or Bovet, or the hands that telescope on demand from Parmigiani – points to the inherent difficulties of providing a large amount of information on a surface of less than 60 square metres.
The inextricable link between mechanics, creativity, practical needs and graphic expression – the essence of watchmaking – has always found one of their most exciting areas of expression in the world of multiple time zones. We do see more and more models with separate hour and minute displays, essential for tracking time in countries with 15, 40 or 45 minute time zones (including India and its UTC +5:30).
Local colour
A watch showing 24 time zones needs to be legible, with enlarged dials and smooth fonts. The choice of reference cities for these time zones is also an interesting business exercise. After all, there is no reason for a limited series for the Saudi market (UTC +3) to use Moscow as a reference point. And the last option is still quite rare, as bezels tend to be dominated by markings and few are as functional as those of IWC or Rolex.
After leaving the borders of one's own country, the wearer is free to choose a watch that can go beyond his initial setting. Watches that show the time somewhere else no longer hesitate to do so, crossing borders in our company.
Magnificent equation of bezels and colored dials - AP Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph 37mm This year coincides with the 30th anniversary of the Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Royal Oak Offshore. Four eye-catching new works inlaid with colored gemstones-37mm self-winding chronographs have appeared brilliantly. These four new works are made of 18K rose gold, yellow gold or stainless steel, and inherit the new design first seen in the 43mm Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph in 2021. In these four new works, Audemars Piguet flexibly uses the changes in color and gloss texture to create a rich and harmonious gorgeous style.
The newly launched Royal Oak Offshore Royal Oak Offshore four watches adopt gem inlay technology, "Lady Tapisserie" pattern decoration totem surface, and are equipped with easy-change straps. Brand new design ingenuity
The four 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronographs feature a “Lady Tapisserie” check pattern on the totem surface, and the three-dimensional check totem is slightly larger than in the past. In addition, this watch no longer has the snail pattern used in the past, and it is more refined and elegant than the 37 mm surface of the past. The redesigned AP logo on the surface decoration has been redesigned to replace the pad-printed Audemars Piguet words used in the past, and the proportions are perfect and harmonious. The center of the time scale is slightly raised, with a more three-dimensional and more tense expression, bringing out a more sporty aesthetic.
The focus is on the bezel setting, with two new creations set with brilliant-cut diamonds and two others with colorful baguette-cut gemstones. The color of the dial is refreshing, including light blue, royal blue, black and salmon; the color of the dial is painted with PVD technology, and the tone is mild.
Four 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronographs feature a “Lady Tapisserie” pattern on the totem dial.
The strap is equipped with Audemars Piguet's simple quick-release mechanism, and the wearer can easily change the strap and change the style as he likes. The diamond-set model has a pin buckle, while the baguette-cut model has an AP folding clasp. All four watches are equipped with Audemars Piguet Caliber 2385 chronograph movement, with functions including: hour, minute, small second and date display.
Bremont Broadsword Recon watch along with former special services enthusiast Jason Fox Will it improve? Last week, I had the enjoyment of attending the introduction of Bremont's new Broadsword Recon watch in Nyc. In attendance: Bremont co-founders Giles English and Jerrika Carl Fox, aka Serpentine. The 46-year-old explorer is really a former British Special Causes operator and Royal Sea commando, with a recent storm into television. He aimed the TV show SAS: Who else Dare To Win, is the host of an investigative documented series about drug lords, and just this year was among the hosts of Special Makes: World's Toughest Trial.
Seems watching the series this season and would love to meet Cunning. I was not disappointed. I understand the 46-year-old has been in Unique Forces for about 20 years. Furthermore , i know that he has been launched from the hospital with PTSD and that he started his own organization to help veterans and Specific Forces personnel deal with psychological health issues.
His candor as well as sincerity left a heavy impression on me. However all of that is another story simply because I had the chance to interview your pet. Meanwhile, back to the great blade.
Bremont has a close romantic relationship with the military - creating watches for many armies all over the world. After all, this is the brand which makes watches for those who eject from the Martin Baker ejection chair and survive an aircraft accident. The watches were actually tested on real disposition seats when tested. Additionally it is the brand that has an official relationship with the Ministry of Protection, paying tribute to Their Majesty's Armed Forces.
Clean outlines, legibility, high functionality and gratification, and precision are some of the actual aspects of a good military view. Bremont has it all, with an affordable price. Case in point: the limited-edition Bremont Broadsword Recon (short for Reconnaissance) watch simply joined its Armed Forces selection.
The Bremont Broadsword Recon Watch pays homage towards the 1940's with a vintage design, while still having contemporary appeal. By day, this timepiece boasts a sandwich dial (a layered dial with a lustrous base plate covered by the platen with cut- away index holes) that offers level and dimension, and -- at night - thanks to the particular P51 Super-LumiNova source Self-dial architecture. The Lumen is actually bright green in the dark and it is easy to read against the matte dark dial. This watch includes a small seconds subdial and also Arabic numerals at six: 00.
Crafted from stainless steel, this particular 40mm watch is run by a chronometer- certified mechanised movement. It has a high-tech hairspring, balance and mainspring, while offering a 38-hour power reserve. The actual domed sapphire crystal will be coated with an anti-reflective covering.
As the only luxury enjoy brand authorized to use all coats of arms along with symbols of the three Uk armies, the Royal Navy blue, British Army and Regal Air Force, the case back of this timepiece bears all three symbols. The text "Approved by Her Majesty's Armed Forces" also show up. Since the model was constructed under Her Majesty's rule, the words have not been converted to "Her Majesty's". All back again covers in Bremont's Military collection will feature the right wording when the King's Coating of Arms is released. Watch experts say the "her" version will become a collector's item when the words within the caseback change from Her Majesty to His Majesty.
The particular Broadsword Recon is waterproof to 100 meters in addition to comes with two interchangeable band, including a lime gray painting NATO strap, and a dark-colored rubber or antiqued brownish leather strap.
Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei Ten Days Tourbillon Receives Platinum Bovet reaches out to collectors with the OttantaSei watch, limited to 10 pieces in a platinum case.
The ongoing partnership between Swiss watchmaker Bovet and Italian automotive design studio Pininfarina has resulted in one of the most fascinating timepieces on the market. Featuring all the mechanical sophistication and refined finishes we associate with Bovet timepieces, the OttantaSei has a sleek aerodynamic case and a symmetrical layout that rivals the hands of Pininfarina.
Just days before Bovet took home the watchmaking industry's highest honor at the 2018 GPHG, the brand was awarded the coveted "Golden Eagle Needle" with its stunning Récital 22 Grand Récital chronometer, and the brand announced the launch of its OttantaSei Tuo. Platinum version of the flywheel model. Launched in 2010 to celebrate Pininfarina's 80th anniversary, the Ottanta Tourbillon has grown into an independent collection. To meet the needs of collectors, Bovet has produced a limited edition of 10 OttantaSei platinum watches, and the brand promises to produce an undiminished total of 86 movements. Over the years, the designers of Pininfarina and the watchmakers of Bovet have worked closely together and agreed from the outset that the time display, the double-sided flying tourbillon (regulatory mechanism) and the power reserve indicator (energy) should all be given equal Pay attention to.
Breitling Exospace B55 Yachting Watch Review and Notes on the Breitling Professional Collection
I've owned this Breitling Exospace B55 Yachting watch for a while now and it's on my wrist most of the time. It’s an ana-digi quartz watch that’s big and rare, weird and rare – I love all of those qualities, except its rarity on the market and on people’s wrists. Here's more on its pros and cons, why it speaks to me...and why I think it's important to us watch lovers, especially the Breitling fans among us.
This wouldn't be my holy war trying to convince anyone to try a quartz watch - not to mention the blasphemy that the Exospace B55 is also a quasi-smart Breitling watch with Bluetooth connectivity and an app to go with it! I'd say the Breitling Exospace B55 Yachting is probably hovering at the bottom of the larger watch enthusiast community's cumulative watch wish list (let me know if you think I'm wrong - I want it to be the case), which makes it harder for me Communicating my positive experience with this watch.
However, what I have to say may resonate with you. I'll admit that the vast majority of watches with basic automatic movements were forgotten by me not too long ago - if you can recognize the feeling, then you might want to consider this B55. To clarify, a watch with a basic ETA 2824 or 7750 has to work really hard these days to keep me as fascinated and excited as ever. The short power reserve, audible wound rotors and repetitive feature set no longer excite me. All the function-related and design-related dilemmas of watches are with or without a date... oh, and if we do have a date, what's the least intrusive place? When I'm wearing a watch for my own pleasure, I need it to both excite me and free me from all that boring crap.
I won't go into detail about why so many of the recent automatic transmissions in the world tend to lack all of these things, because that's a topic for another discussion. Suffice it to say, sometimes they just don't. So, how does the Breitling Exospace B55 Yachting perform? Let's take a look at the aforementioned list of selfish indulgences.
Recreation in the Breitling Exospace B55 yacht The entertainment that one finds in a watch is very subjective. Below is a subjective list of what I call "the entertainment factor in modern luxury timepieces." If you're the kind of guy (or girl) who gets mad at the fact that your mileage might be different, skip to point 2). When it comes to entertainment on a watch, subjectivity is a matter of one's prioritization of the objective component. These elements include (but are not limited to) the brand, design, function, and story (or, if not, marketing) of the watch.
In this case, branded entertainment is absolutely guaranteed as far as I'm concerned. I think Breitling is a very interesting company. As far as I'd like to look back on its past, it's always been that way, even as the way it enjoys entertainment has changed over the years. From scantily clad ladies to fighter jets, to bold (and sometimes very bold) watches and collections designed for very specific and very cool usage scenarios, Breitling has a lot to bombard one's senses with. Of course, the decor girls are gone—in an almost creepy all-encompassing way—and so are the ridiculous ad campaigns, but the vibe of positivity and uniqueness continues to linger around the brand. The logo for these changes is the winged « B », which is replaced by the retro cursive B, which, in fact, already exists on the crown of Breitling watches.
However, this Exospace B55 still has wings on the dial, and those wings remind me of that surprisingly non-PC Breitling that has been doing its thing. To be fair, I'm happy to say that despite the dramatic changes in the brand's circumstances, it remains more uncompromisingly focused on its business under Georges Kern. For me, the atmosphere of manufacturing, design and brand independence will always be a core part of Breitling's charm.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph 41mm Brushed Gold The latest version of the Associated Press RO Chrono is equipped with a flyback movement and is now available in a highly decorated limited edition.
Don't think that because Audemars Piguet has launched a variety of new models this year, they have nothing to show. In fact, it is far from the case, because today the brand once again released a number of new watches. Some are really spectacular. Earlier this year, Audemars Piguet launched a new version of the Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph, which is a classic model based on the movement launched with code 11.59, equipped with a new automatic movement. Visually, there is not much explanation for this update, but mechanically speaking, this is a big step forward. Today, the brand launched a new limited edition based on this watch, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph 41 mm frosted gold, with an iconic hammered case.
The Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph is a true classic in the series, launched in 1997 for the 25th anniversary of the series. It was 39 mm in size at the time and equipped with a Piguet movement. It will slowly develop until 2012 and it will be updated to a 41 mm case. But still the basic movement with external sources. In 2021, RO Chrono will undergo one of the most important updates ever. Of course, the style and proportions are almost the same. But inside the case, there is Audemars Piguet's internal integrated automatic chronograph, which is the first movement to appear in the Code 11.59 series 4401 movement.
A/6538 was reclassified, and the first MilSub was added by the referee shortly after. 5512 is almost the watch you can buy in the store, except for solderable tin bars. After a short love with Omega's Seamaster 300, MOD returned to Rolex in 1971. Rolex has provided approximately 1,200 watches for Rolex from then to 1979, which are divided into three models according to the model. 5513 is used for SAS of the Army and SBS Special Forces of the Navy. Those military references are referees. No. 5513 5513/5517 and reference 5517.
Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe (Ricardo Guadalupe) said: "These classic Fusion models reflect 40 years of technological progress and breakthrough conventions. "We are not satisfied with simply re-issuing the 1980 Classic Original. It has been reinterpreted to reflect Hublot today. One model is a 45mm men's mechanical movement. The new contemporary version celebrates forty years of Hublot's last innovative approach. " cheapestwrist.com
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